How to find your next guardian dog pup.

 

How to find your next guardian dog pup.
©Louise Liebenberg (2022)
Written for The Shepherd's Magazine

Once the decision is made to add a livestock guardian dog (LGD) to the ranch, the search begins to find a suitable pup or adult dog that can be added to your flock. In many cases people are a bit unsure how to go about finding a “good” breeder. In this article I am going to offer some suggestions on how to find a breeder or pup.
It can be a challenge to find the right dog for your operation and many people are a little stumped where to look and what to look for. Since Facebook does not allow animal sales posts and Craig’s list might not be the best place to find your future guardian dog, finding that pup or breeder can be a little daunting, particularly when new to LGD or even livestock raising.

I think the first step is to look at your operation and decide what you are really looking for, each operation is different and that means the needs are also different. If you have a large, grazed range type flock, in an area with many predators your requirements are very different than a small homestead type of operation.  Writing down a list of wants and needs is a good place to start.

The next step is doing your research, read books, read breed websites, join some LGD pages and learn as much as you can before you purchase a pup. Spending a few days doing research is a good investment of time. A LGD should not be purchased on a whim, as it is a 10 plus year commitment and the lives of your livestock and, potentially your livelihood will depend on the LGD doing a good job.

You could include contacting breed clubs to help narrow down the type of dog you are wanting. Some breed clubs focus more on pet and companion dogs and others value and uphold working dogs. Either way, it is still a good starting point for general information and potential leads on litters. It is good to learn more about the traits, character, size, coat, temperament, of each specific breed. There are well over 40 different LGD breeds, each with their own ingrained characteristics. Some breeds have milder natures while others are higher drive dogs.

Personally, I think the actual breed is a little less important than finding the right breeder. For example, you need a truck, it can be a Dodge, Ford or GMC, all similar vehicles but each is slightly different. It might be more important to find the right dealership that will provide you with quality service, terms and who will provide support and help when and if you need it. Similarly, most LGD share a lot of similar traits but finding the right breeder who can mentor and guide you might be more important than the breed itself.   Some breeders offer a lifetime guarantee for support, while others offer support to the end of their driveway.

I think the best route to finding the right breed or even breeder is to speak to the folks who already use LGD. This could be through sheep organizations, producer forums, and neighbors. Find producers who raise livestock in a similar area and manner as you do. Ask them about their dogs, where they got their dogs or even any issues or recommendations they may have. We raise livestock in a very high predator area but also in an extremely harsh cold climate. Finding dogs who have been raised and worked in similar circumstances will ensure a high probability of success.  I think we need to move away from solely searching for dogs just through the internet and we need to go back and pick up the phone and speak to other producers. Having these conversations will be both educational and will most likely lead to more contacts and references on who might have pups available and who to avoid.

Then the process starts on contacting various breeders and talking to them about their breeding program, how the pups are raised, what the parents of the pups are like and how they work, veterinary information, price, and any other things you might need to know. Some breeders make require you to sign a purchase agreement, breeding restrictions may apply, others might require proof of spay/ neuter or even things like hip dysplasia testing. It is good to know ahead of time what the expectations are on both sides.  Some buyers prefer a “no strings attached” approach and others value the input and contact with a breeder. If possible, ask to meet the breeder and the parents of the pups. Be aware that some breeders might have a waiting list and so getting a good pup might mean you have to wait for it.

Questions that could be important to ask include things like:
What type of support do you offer?
Should my life circumstances change, are you willing to take the pup back or help with rehoming?
What program would you recommend for the initial raising of the pup?
Do you offer any guarantee’s and if so, what?
What age can the pup leave the litter? (Should be at least 8 weeks and older)
How experienced or knowledgeable is the breeder?

There are also lots of reg flags when puppy shopping. 
Here are some to be aware of:

• Breeders selling crosses with non LGD breeds.
• If the breeder cannot spell their own breed name correctly then that would be a warning sign regarding how well they know their own breed.
• Pups that have colours, size, ear set or other distinguishing features that make you question the parentage of the pups.
• Selling pups too young.
• Breeders who have multiple litters all at the same time, are they a puppy mill? Are they in the business of dog breeding or breeding a litter for the livestock operation?
• Beware of fancy terms; Holistically raised (does this mean no veterinary care?), or breeders who create a “new breed”, along with a new fancy made up name?
• Breeders who own no livestock.
• Show breeders toting their ribbons and claiming that instincts do not get lost even after multiple generations of no work or selection.
• If you are needing a full time working dog, beware of folks saying pups need to be raised in the house and are not ready to work until over 2 years old.

In a nutshell, the old fashion “word of mouth” is still often the best way to find the dog you are needing and wanting. Utilise the internet to learn as much as you can and be very aware of all the conflicting information. Try and figure out if the person commenting or advertising on the internet has valid experience or not. Do some reading; books, websites of LGD breed clubs (it will soon be apparent who focuses on pets or working traits) subscribe to industry magazines as many have an advertising section and often in sheep related magazines you can find advertisements for herding and guardian dogs, speak to breeders directly, be clear on what you are wanting or needing.

Impulse buying is never a good strategy, neither is emotional buying. I think purchasing your next flock protector should be a business decision; is it a good investment, do I have time, are there other or better ways to protect my livestock, how much do I need a dog compared with how much do I want a dog, is a LGD what I want, or do I want a general farm dog? Do I have the space, number of livestock and work for an LGD? Is good fencing a better option? What is my plan if the dog does not work out? Can I manage the dog in a suitable way to avoid unwanted litters? What do I need to facilitate to ensure the pup has the highest chance of success? What is the long-term plan with the dog, how many other LGD do I need? When should I add a second one? Can I manage things such as in-pack fighting, roaming and other possible behavioural problems? Do I need to consider neighbors and the impact of having a large breed dog barking a lot will have on them?
There are multiple things to consider before acquiring the pup and being systematic in your approach in researching and speaking to people will ensure a thorough decision-making process. Not all situations warrant an LGD, and recognising this might be the most important decision you make!

Unsung Hero

 

Unsung hero
Louise Liebenberg
Written for The Shepherds Magazine

This past week all my social media feeds were about a young livestock guardian dog (LGD) that battled some coyotes to save his sheep. The story was shared far and wide and it made me realise that for many of us full time shepherds this is “normal” for our dogs, we keep these dogs with our flocks to do this exact job. Many of our dogs, although very much appreciated and loved, never will get the media attention that this dog did. We all have “unsung hero’s” in our back pastures, in this article I am going to share the story of one of mine.

I lost one of my most favorite livestock guardian dogs (LGD) last week to old age, normally I am not one to really express publicly, the sadness I feel when one of the team passes on. This time it is a little different and I would like to share some of the lessons I have learnt from this dog. His name was Vuk, which is the Serbian word for wolf. Vuk, has challenged many of my previously held ideas on what LGD should be and do. He forced me to reassess my thoughts on how LGD work, and to not limit their working ability because of how I expected them to be.
Vuk came to me as a 12-week-old puppy from his breeder in Pennsylvania. The first year with him was a struggle.  He was high energy and was rather difficult to form a relationship with as he was fiercely independent and although being friendly enough, simply had no time for anyone.  As a pup he was always on the go, I used to joke that he should have been a sled dog rather than an LGD. He could not relax and seemed “hyper” all the time. With the sheep, his energy and activity level was certainly not something the sheep were used to. The found him disruptive and I was irritated by him. I always felt the energy level of the LGD should match that of the sheep. I liked the slow and steady types. This young dog was so energetic, that I sincerely questioned if he would make the grade as an LGD.  Whenever he moved, the sheep became startled. When he was about a year old, I mentioned to his breeder, that I may consider rehoming him, he was just not "my kind" of dog.

He was everything I thought was wrong with a LGD, he was high energy and did not really want to be a “close” type of guardian dog. I questioned if he was bonded with the sheep as he never really “snuggled” with the sheep.  He was never far away, but never chose to be close to the sheep, or huddle up against the sheep during the frigid winters here in Canada. However, as he was never inappropriate toward the livestock, and he never set a foot wrong towards the sheep. He never showed any predatory behaviour towards them; never played with them, was not rough, he never pulled wool, nipped, or chased them, and it was this, that made me decide to keep working with him.   I learnt not to try and shape Vuk into being the dog I wanted, instead to learn to work with him and his unique character.

Once I had that mind shift, things changed. When he was old enough to go and work on the larger bush pastures where the predator pressure was high, he settled into his job. He would patrol hundreds of acres of bush and pasture, and his energy level became an asset. He was tireless in checking out regular predator trails and chasing off predators. He would come and check in with the sheep and be off actively patrolling again. By the time he was three years old he was had fully settled into his job, he was calm and controlled around the sheep as he had enough work to keep his mind and body busy. He was always checking in with the flock, laying in an area he could watch over them, and was highly protective of them. I have seen him battle coyotes, tree bears and be on the watch for cougars. I have even seen Vuk fearlessly chase away a large bison bull from our cows. Wolves are part of our environment, and I am sure his presence and determination helped keep wolves away from the livestock. We could see tracks in the snow where confrontations have taken place and we would find dead coyotes in the pastures, He was powerful, fast, and smart and never backed down from a confrontation.

Vuk understood his job and that was evident in all his interactions with the livestock. He was the guardian of the livestock and left the mothering of lambs to the ewes themselves. He was adamant about chasing ravens and eagles out of the pastures and would guard a dead sheep’s body from scavengers until I removed it.  He was more a warrior than the nursemaid type.  Although he was never the type of dog that would allow lambs to jump up on him, or lay down close to him, he was super reliable with lambs.  He valued his personal space and when a lamb or calf would come and lay near him, he would get up and move to another spot. In many ways he was like this with us too. He would come for some petting but would after a few minutes, trot off back to the livestock. He would watch over lambs and calves with vigilance and dedication.

He could often be found watching over a bunch of calves, while the cows went to eat or drink. He read the body language of any animal perfectly. If he got to close to a cow with a newborn calf and she gave him “the look”, he would quietly move further away and gave her space, enough so, that the cow did not feel the need to run him off. He was very in tune with the reactions of the livestock, he would back away from an ewe that might feel nervous around him yet would stand his ground around the big bulls.  He was probably the dog with the best ability to “read” the livestock I have ever worked with. The sheep and cows soon grew a bond with this dog and trusted him.

He was a true leader when it came to the other dogs, he was respectful of the older females and would work well within the team. Most of the other dogs really liked to work with him. He was an excellent mentor to other young dogs. He was fair when it came to young males, he did not go looking for a fight, but if the fight came to him, he would deal with it. He was adaptable and could be moved around with other dogs and situations where he was needed, from the calving corrals one day to large, forested sheep grazing pastures the next.

He taught me that patrolling or perimeter type dogs are as valuable at their job of protecting the sheep as close guardians. He proved to me that high energy is not a bad trait to have. Having a strong lupine build, that could move,  was more advantageous than big slow cumbersome dogs when dealing with predators. Despite not being a dog that liked to be physically close to the sheep, it did not mean he was not bonded to them.  Having the space to work, the challenges of his job and ability to utilise his energy made him into a fine working dog. His ability to read the livestock become so finely tuned, that it really took my breath away to watch him work around an ornery cow, or a young ewe.

As he grew older, I made some attempts at retiring him, fearing he might be killed by predators. He wanted nothing to do with that and would take every opportunity to escape back to the livestock. During the harsh winter months, I would put him in the heated shop and then back in the pastures when the weather was milder, this is where he was happiest. This winter his health declined, and a few weeks back he passed away.

I am thankful that I have had the opportunity to work with such a fine dog, and that I had the right environment for him to be the best he could. I grew to admire and respect this dog deeply, and as he aged, he was more accepting of me cuddling him and I think he actually started to enjoy it!  He changed my perceptions of what a good working dog could be.  Over the years we bonded to each other, and I adored this dog, and he will forever be one of the great ones in my life, perhaps the greatest.

Vuk, no sheep or calves were ever lost under your watch! Thank you.

 

 

Other Guard animals: Llamas

 

This llama is displaying its unhappiness with our presences close to the fence of the sheep paddock. It is highly territorial and likes to stay between the perceived danger and the sheep.

 

Other Guard animals: Llamas|
Louise Liebenberg 2022, written for The Shepherds Magazine

This is the second part of a small mini-series on other animals that can be used to protect sheep from predators. The two most common “go to” guard animals, other than livestock guardian dogs (LGD) are donkeys and llamas.  This article will take a closer look at llamas. There have been very few studies done on the use and effectiveness of guard llamas, most of the articles and stories are anecdotal rather than hardcore scientific research. In the 1990’s, Iowa State University did a telephone survey to try and look a little closer at the effectiveness of using guard llamas to protect sheep from predation.

For those who do not know llamas are camelids that originate in South America and were domesticated for meat, fibre and utilised as pack animals. Llamas should not be confused with their smaller counterpart the alpaca. Alpacas should not really be used as guard animals due to their small size, in areas with apex predators. Alpaca’s might be a good option for smaller animals such as racoons, or foxes and for guarding smaller livestock but will not be able to contend with grizzly bears or wolves.
Llama’s can weigh in the region of 250 lbs making them a fairly large sized animal, while alpacas are in the 120-140 lbs range.

Due to their height, they certainly have an advantage that they can see further than sheep can. They behave like sentry animals, and due to their alertness are quick to warn for any dangers, they can make a variation of vocalizations, which the sheep soon learn to respond to. Llamas can run, stomp, strike, kick, and spit at predators. Often it is also the larger size that can dissuade predators.  Llamas can be quite territorial about their pasture even occasionally being aggressive towards people who approach the pasture.

Llamas are generally quite effective against smaller predators such as coyotes, foxes, skunks, and racoons. They do however prefer open, flatter spaces than wooded hilly areas, it has been reported that llamas will not really enter forested or bushy areas. Llamas seem to perform best on pastures smaller than 250-300 acres and up to about 300 ewes.

Llamas who are well bonded to the sheep are the most effective at their job. Similarly with livestock guardian dogs and donkeys, it is imperative that the sheep and the guard animal form a bond. Without this bond, no other species will feel the need to protect the sheep from predators. It is also generally advised that just a single llama should be placed with the ewes, so that it remains bonded to the sheep rather than forming an attachment to another llama and forgetting about the sheep.  There is a bit of an adjustment time for the sheep and llamas to get to know each other but when raised from a young age with sheep, this period can be a matter of a few weeks before both species are comfortable with each other. As intact male llamas can become quite aggressive towards the sheep and might try to breed/mount the ewes, it is always advisable to geld the male llamas. Female llama are also used successfully. In the 1990 study, most producers preferred using gelded males.

Keeping llamas requires similar management to sheep. They graze alongside the sheep and when the flock needs deworming, hoof trimming and shearing, so does the llama. It is advisable to halter break the llama so that it can be easily removed from the flock when routine work gets done, or for ease at shearing time.

Here are some  interesting  results from the Iowa State university study regarding the use and effectiveness if guard llamas:
Most guard llama’s were gelded males.
80% of llamas were rated as “effective or effective at reducing losses to predators”.
88%  of owners were  either “satisfied or very satisfied” with their llama program.
Over half the producers felt that llamas provided some savings by reducing predation.
75% of the llamas were reported not to negatively affect the sheep they were protecting.
Predation fell  from 21% to 7% after a guard llama was introduced to the flock.
Sheep losses before llamas were noted to be around 11% and after the llama was introduced losses declined to about 1%. One does need to bear in mind that all producers continued to use alternate methods to reduce predation in conjunction with the llama (fencing, shooting, trapping, poison etc.)
predation increased when multiple llamas were introduced to the flock.

Llamas have been observed in South America aggressively chasing away foxes but did run away when mountain lions appeared.
llamas are found to be less effective when it comes to packs of coyotes or dogs. One llama is not able to contend with multiple predators at the same time. One should remember that llamas are also prey animals to large predators, and this could put the llama in serious jeopardy.

As with all guard animals there are always pros and cons, here are a few considerations:

Due to the innate aggression towards smaller canine, it may be difficult to use herding and guard dogs with a llama in the pasture.
Although easy keepers, they do require some specific management, it can be hard to find someone who will come and shear a llama, they require more copper than sheep do and often do not utilise hard salt or mineral blocks and require these in a “loose” form.
Llamas vocalise fairly softly when there is danger, usually if a guardian dog barks the shepherd or rancher can hear by the barking that predators may be close by.
A barking dog can also provide some protection to the farm, something that a llama does not do.

I think on small homesteads, or farms with neighbours close by, a guard llama might be a better option than a guard dogs, particularly on homesteads where the predators are smaller and the number of animals requiring protection are less. Llamas will not keep the neighbours awake from barking, they integrate rapidly in a small sheep or goat herd, they can provide more fiber options on fiber-based homesteads, they can become well socialised and tame and can be trained as pack animals and in some areas even hiking companions.  Llamas do not dig out or actively try to escape fences like guard dogs sometimes do. Llamas can live for 20-25 years providing many years of protection to the sheep flock. In some cattle operations guard llamas are used to help protect newborn calves from coyotes.

Recognizing that llamas are also prey animals and understanding their limitations, I do think llamas are a good option for many smaller pasture-based operations. The provide another layer of protection to the flock. Llamas can become very devoted to their flock and the sheep really seek out the companionship of the taller and bigger animal.

 This alpaca was added to a group of young ram lambs to provide an additional layer of protection for the flock. This operation also uses guard donkeys with their ewes.